Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and lively culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these stories and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
